Mature hair suffers more from humidity, and serums and oils aren’t always enough to keep it under control. Two hairstylists explain that the solution lies not in the product applied on top, but in protecting the fiber from within.
According to Trendencias, frizz in mature manes has a structural cause that surface cosmetics cannot resolve on their own.
Hair ages. From the age of 40, the sebaceous glands reduce oil production, and this natural barrier that kept the cuticle sealed starts to falter. According to the publication, the stylist Miguel Bling, director of You Glow Salon, explains, “as the years pass, hair loses part of its lipids and elasticity, the cuticle becomes more vulnerable, and in humid environments like coastal areas it absorbs water more easily.”
The result is frizz that is much harder to manage if we only act on the outside of the hair. A NIH study published in 2022 corroborates this: sebum secretion peaks between 15 and 35 years of age, and declines continuously from then on. The cuticle of a mature hair, seen this way, functions like a door that no longer closes completely.
The fiber is left exposed. When the environment is humid, the scales of the cuticle open to absorb water vapor. In mature hair, this reaction is stronger because the protective layer is no longer intact, and the interior of the fiber is left exposed like a sponge ready to swell at the slightest trace of moisture.
That’s why Bling warns that the real challenge lies in the hair fiber itself, not in what is applied on top. A recent study on scalp aging notes that, in addition to the sebaceous glands, the skin’s rete ridges also diminish, which further increases the strand’s vulnerability.
And oils?
They help, but not alone. This is the takeaway from expert colorist Beatriz Mariño, owner of Beatriz Hair Salon and an ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel: “when we’re seeking durable frizz control, especially on mature hair exposed to humidity, it’s important to choose formulas that, in addition to improving the appearance of the hair, help protect the fiber and extend the benefits of the salon treatment.”
The key, according to Mariño, is to select products that manage frizz without taking away body or movement. The current trend moves away from the stiff “flat-iron” effect and toward more personality-filled manes that aren’t afraid to show their natural texture, with waves and volume.
The wash matters. The first change is the shampoo: aggressive sulfates have excellent cleansing power to reset a mane saturated with product, but used regularly they strip away the few natural oils that still protect hair from the 40s and 50s. The alternative are sulfate-free formulas that cleanse gently without harshness.
Additionally, the shampoo is applied only to the scalp, with a gentle massage using the fingertips, and the foam is allowed to rinse through lengths and ends without rubbing. Finishing the rinse with cool or lukewarm water helps to seal the cuticle scales and enhances shine.
Microfiber towel and cold air. Equally important is what happens after the shower. The ideal is to press the hair with a microfiber towel rather than rubbing it with a cotton one, as it absorbs more water with less friction. The correct technique is to gently blot to remove excess moisture, without rubbing: friction lifts the cuticles we’ve just worked to keep closed.
After applying a heat protectant to damp hair, blow-dry at medium temperature and finish with a blast of cold air to seal the fiber and make the style last longer. And it makes sense: if our goal is to keep the cuticle closed, every movement matters.
Photos | Gtres/Backgrid
In Trendencias | Hair stylists agree: “To control frizz in mature hair exposed to humidity, it isn’t enough to rely on serums or oils. It’s important to opt for formulas that help protect the fiber.”
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